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Tractor Valve Detent Kit Options, AM132338, #23-041, Dukes / Danfoss SCV 1627-1R

Or sometimes the casting reads as 1827-1R

This is the info I’ve found while trying to fix my Steiner 430 Max which has float issues where the detent is badly worn.

The John Deere AM132338 is I think the same as the Steiner #23-041 available at Messick’s for much less $ than from any green parts store. I cannot find the dukes part number other than as mentioned in the DCV Technical Document PDF mentioned as “Float conversion (add float detent kit A to standard T spool)” but again, I can’t find the OEM float detent kit part number.

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Ivy’s Butterhorn Rolls

I transcribed the only genuine copy I could find for you here, with the original following.

Ivy’s Butterhorn Rolls

  • 1 tablespoon active dry yeast
  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 cup vegetable oil
  • 1 cup milk
  • 4-1/4 to 4-3/4 cups all-purpose flour
  • 3 medium eggs, beaten well
  • melted unsalted butter for brushing the rolls

In a small bowl proof the yeast with l teaspoon of the sugar in 1/4 cup warm water for 10 minutes, or until it is foamy.

In the large bowl of an electric mixer combine the remaining sugar, the salt, and the oil, add the milk, scalded, and stir in 4-1/4 cups of the flour, stirring to combine the mixture well.

Add the yeast mixture and the eggs and with the dough hook beat in enough of the remaining 1/2 cup flour to make a soft, sticky dough. Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl, turning it to coat it with the oil, and let it rise, covered with plastic wrap, in a warm place for 1-1/2 to 2 hours, or until it is double in bulk. Punch down the dough, on a floured surface divide it into 4 equal parts, and roll each part into a ball.

Working with 1 ball at a time and keeping the remaining balls covered with a kitchen towel, roll the balls on the floured surface into 8-inch circles, cut each circle into & wedges, and, beginning with the wide ends, roll up the wedges jelly-roll fashion. Arrange the rolls, points down, 2 inches apart on ungreased baking sheets and let them rise, covered loosely, in a warm place for 1 hour, or until they are doubled in bulk. Brush the rolls lightly with the butter and bake them in the middle of a preheated 375°F oven for 12 to 15 minutes, or until they are pale golden.

Transfer the rolls to racks and let them cool. The rolls keep, wrapped
tightly in foil in plastic bags and frozen, for 1 month.

Makes 32 dinner rolls.

IVY SLACK
BURLINGTON, VERMONT

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printer.cfg for Tronxy x5sa w/ klipper & BTT Octopus

This is my printer.cfg code, it is a work in progress and should only be used for reference.

In reference to a comment on this video of mine: https://youtu.be/RvArwrJtTBM

# This file contains common pin mappings for the BigTreeTech Octopus.
# To use this config, the firmware should be compiled for the
# STM32F446 with a "32KiB bootloader" and a "12MHz crystal" clock reference.

# See docs/Config_Reference.md for a description of parameters.

[virtual_sdcard]
path: ~/gcode_files

[display_status]

[pause_resume]

[gcode_macro CANCEL_PRINT]
description: Cancel the actual running print
rename_existing: CANCEL_PRINT_BASE
gcode:
  TURN_OFF_HEATERS
  CANCEL_PRINT_BASE

# Driver0
[stepper_x]
step_pin: PF13
dir_pin: PF12
enable_pin: !PF14
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 80
endstop_pin: !PG6
position_endstop: 0
position_max: 330
homing_speed: 50

# Driver1
[stepper_y]
step_pin: PG0
dir_pin: PG1
enable_pin: !PF15
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 80
endstop_pin: !PG9
position_endstop: 0
position_max: 330
homing_speed: 50

# Driver2
[stepper_z]
step_pin: PF11
dir_pin: !PG3
enable_pin: !PG5
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 16
endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop
position_min: -15
position_max: 395


# Driver3
# The Octopus only has 4 heater outputs which leaves an extra stepper
# This can be used for a second Z stepper, dual_carriage, extruder co-stepper,
# or other accesory such as an MMU
[stepper_z1]
step_pin: PG4
dir_pin: !PC1
enable_pin: !PA0
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 16



#...

########################
#      BL Touch        #   
########################

# A [probe] section can be defined instead with a pin: setting identical
# to the sensor_pin: for a bltouch
[bltouch]
sensor_pin: ^PB7
control_pin: PB6
x_offset: -42.3
y_offset: -7
z_offset: 5.1
speed: 5
pin_move_time: .68
stow_on_each_sample: False  
pin_up_touch_mode_reports_triggered: False
samples: 3
samples_result: median

[safe_z_home]
home_xy_position: 210, 165 # Change coordinates to the center of your print bed
speed: 50
z_hop: 10                 # Move up 10mm
z_hop_speed: 5

########################
#      Z Tilt          #   
########################

[z_tilt]
z_positions:-90,165
  420,165
points: 90,165
  327,165
speed: 200
horizontal_move_z: 10
retries: 5
retry_tolerance: .005


########################
#  Mesh Bed Leveling   #   
########################

[bed_mesh]
speed: 200
horizontal_move_z: 6
mesh_min: 45, 45
mesh_max: 280, 280 
probe_count: 5, 5

###########################
#  SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE  #   
###########################

[screws_tilt_adjust]
screw1: 90,45
screw1_name: left front
screw2: 90,285
screw2_name: left back
screw3: 330,285
screw3_name: right back
screw4: 330,45
screw4_name: right front
speed: 100
horizontal_move_z: 5
screw_thread: CCW-M3


########################
#      Extruder        #   
########################

# Driver4
[extruder]
step_pin: PF9
dir_pin: !PF10
enable_pin: !PG2
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 30
nozzle_diameter: 0.400
filament_diameter: 1.750
heater_pin: PA2 # HE0
sensor_pin:  PF4 # T0
sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F
control: pid
pid_Kp: 21.259
pid_Ki: .998
pid_Kd: 113.204
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 250

#[filament_switch_sensor material_0]
#switch_pin: PG12

# Driver5
#[extruder1]
#step_pin: PC13
#dir_pin: PF0
#enable_pin: !PF1
#heater_pin: PA3 # HE1
#sensor_pin: PF5 # T1
#...

#[filament_switch_sensor material_1]
#switch_pin: PG13

# Driver6
#[extruder2]
#step_pin: PE2
#dir_pin: PE3
#enable_pin: !PD4
#heater_pin: PB10 # HE2
#sensor_pin: PF6 # T2
#...

#[filament_switch_sensor material_2]
#switch_pin: PG14

# Driver7
#[extruder3]
#step_pin: PE6
#dir_pin: PA14
#enable_pin: !PE0
#heater_pin: PB11 # HE3
#sensor_pin: PF7 # T3
#...

#[filament_switch_sensor material_3]
#switch_pin: PG15

[heater_bed]
heater_pin: PA1
sensor_pin: PF3 # TB
sensor_type: ATC Semitec 104GT-2
#control: watermark
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 130

[fan]
pin: PA8

[heater_fan fan1]
pin: PE5

#[heater_fan fan2]
#pin: PD12

#[heater_fan fan3]
#pin: PD13

#[heater_fan fan4]
#pin: PD14

#[controller_fan fan5]
#pin: PD15

[mcu]
serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_stm32f446xx_47005E000451373330333137-if00
# CAN bus is also available on this board

[printer]
kinematics: corexy
max_velocity: 300
max_accel: 3000
max_z_velocity: 5
max_z_accel: 100

########################################
# TMC2209 configuration
########################################

#[tmc2209 stepper_x]
#uart_pin: PC4
#diag_pin: PG6
#run_current: 0.800


#[tmc2209 stepper_y]
#uart_pin: PD11
#diag_pin: PG9
#run_current: 0.800


#[tmc2209 stepper_z]
#uart_pin: PC6
##diag_pin: PG10
#run_current: 0.650
#stealthchop_threshold: 999999

#[tmc2209 stepper_]
#uart_pin: PC7
##diag_pin: PG11
#run_current: 0.650
#stealthchop_threshold: 999999

[tmc2209 extruder]
uart_pin: PF2
run_current: 0.8
#stealthchop_threshold: 999999

#[tmc2209 extruder1]
#uart_pin: PE4
#run_current: 0.800
#stealthchop_threshold: 999999

#[tmc2209 extruder2]
#uart_pin: PE1
#run_current: 0.800
#stealthchop_threshold: 999999

#[tmc2209 extruder3]
#uart_pin: PD3
#run_current: 0.800
#stealthchop_threshold: 999999

########################################
# TMC2130 configuration
########################################

#[tmc2130 stepper_x]
#cs_pin: PC4
#spi_bus: spi1
##diag1_pin: PG6
#run_current: 0.800
#stealthchop_threshold: 999999

#[tmc2130 stepper_y]
#cs_pin: PD11
#spi_bus: spi1
##diag1_pin: PG9
#run_current: 0.800
#stealthchop_threshold: 999999

#[tmc2130 stepper_z]
#cs_pin: PC6
#spi_bus: spi1
##diag1_pin: PG10
#run_current: 0.650
#stealthchop_threshold: 999999

#[tmc2130 stepper_]
#cs_pin: PC7
#spi_bus: spi1
##diag1_pin: PG11
#run_current: 0.800
#stealthchop_threshold: 999999

#[tmc2130 extruder]
#cs_pin: PF2
#spi_bus: spi1
#run_current: 0.800
#stealthchop_threshold: 999999

#[tmc2130 extruder1]
#cs_pin: PE4
#spi_bus: spi1
#run_current: 0.800
#stealthchop_threshold: 999999

#[tmc2130 extruder2]
#cs_pin: PE1
#spi_bus: spi1
#run_current: 0.800
#stealthchop_threshold: 999999

#[tmc2130 extruder3]
#cs_pin: PD3
#spi_bus: spi1
#run_current: 0.800
#stealthchop_threshold: 999999

[board_pins]
aliases:
    # EXP1 header
    EXP1_1=PE8, EXP1_2=PE7,
    EXP1_3=PE9, EXP1_4=PE10,
    EXP1_5=PE12, EXP1_6=PE13,    # Slot in the socket on this side
    EXP1_7=PE14, EXP1_8=PE15,
    EXP1_9=<GND>, EXP1_10=<5V>,

    # EXP2 header
    EXP2_1=PA6, EXP2_2=PA5,
    EXP2_3=PB1, EXP2_4=PA4,
    EXP2_5=PB2, EXP2_6=PA7,      # Slot in the socket on this side
    EXP2_7=PC15, EXP2_8=<RST>,
    EXP2_9=<GND>, EXP2_10=PC5

# See the sample-lcd.cfg file for definitions of common LCD displays.



#[neopixel my_neopixel]
#pin: PB0

#*# <---------------------- SAVE_CONFIG ---------------------->
#*# DO NOT EDIT THIS BLOCK OR BELOW. The contents are auto-generated.
#*#
#*# [bed_mesh default]
#*# version = 1
#*# points =
#*# 	  -0.149688, -0.099688, -0.069688, -0.074688, -0.079688
#*# 	  -0.059688, -0.004688, 0.055312, 0.050312, -0.009688
#*# 	  0.005312, 0.050312, 0.070312, 0.050312, 0.010312
#*# 	  0.000312, 0.035312, 0.055312, 0.030312, -0.024688
#*# 	  -0.069688, -0.039688, -0.014688, -0.044688, -0.089688
#*# tension = 0.2
#*# min_x = 45.0
#*# algo = lagrange
#*# y_count = 5
#*# mesh_y_pps = 2
#*# min_y = 45.0
#*# x_count = 5
#*# max_y = 280.0
#*# mesh_x_pps = 2
#*# max_x = 280.0
#*#
#*# [extruder]
#*#
#*# [heater_bed]
#*# control = pid
#*# pid_kp = 71.202
#*# pid_ki = 1.276
#*# pid_kd = 993.275
#*#
#*# [bltouch]
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Mike in AL is using a 1/2“ ram pump to fill his pond.

Mike messaged me on eBay asking for recommendations on pump sizing and compatibility with his site. He was wanting to pump spring water up to a pond higher up on his property.

We ultimately decided on one of my 1/2“ pump kits that will be more likely to operate on low summer flows. He still has the option of adding a second pump for additional options throughout the year.

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“Ram Pump Kit” For Sale On Amazon Now & High Barriers To Entry

I’ve been selling my ram pump kit in the 1/2″ size on eBay for a few weeks now. I’ve made a few sales but talking with a colleague enlightened me to the importance of selling on Amazon.

There are more barriers to entry on Amazon. First my old Amazon selling account was shut down due to inactivity. I started it years ago to sell some college textbooks. It was easy to setup a seller account then.

So I create a new Gmail account specifically for a new amazon account. Then began the hoops I needed to jump through for validating myself as a person. This included a snail-mail PIN code, and a freakin video chat with an amazon representative proving my ID was valid (and correcting a few things I had wrong with the dates because they use an international format).

Finally creating the listing was not at all intuitive. My brand name is still “generic”.

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Steiner Manuals That I Have Found So Far

I bought a steiner 430. I tried finding a manual online. No such luck. The Steiner Turf page where the manuals should be is still under construction at the time of this post after being bought by Doosan.

These are the PDF manuals I have found or have been sent to me so far, Use the manual that’s for your specific model and serial number. I can’t be held responsible for the use of any of the files either correctly or incorrectly. You will need a PDF viewer to view these files, I recommend Foxit:

If you don’t see it here then I don’t have it. Please don’t ask. Contact Steiner Turf for help getting the support you need.

If you have Steiner specific PDF manuals to add please send them to me at malovich@gmail.com

For additional parts diagrams and ordering you might try my preferred parts store, Messicks

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7qt Tub Storage

This is what storage in my shop looks like usually. I’m using an old merchandise shelf from our hospital that’s 24 inches deep and I’ve decided to use sterilite tubs that are about 12 inches deep (7 quart) as my standard small sized storage format and the merchandise shelving is just not working. It takes up too much floor space and I always seem to stack things in front of the boxes because it’s a flat surface and you know what flat surfaces collect… things.First I tried building a wall hangable cubby design out of plywood, the time costs were high and reusability low. It also consumes more plywood than you would expect.Then I decided to use shelves instead, for time and money reasons. First I thought to just use utility shelving boards at Lowes, they come in 11.5″x8′ boards. Barely deep enough if even. I would still need to buy shelf brackets, and enough to prevent sagging, probably 4 per 8 foot board.Then I wandered over to the shelving section to look at shelf brackets and having used ClosetMaid stuff before I figured while I was in the isle I would check it out. While the dollar cost might be a bit higher the other factors would win out. I was able to use a horizontal hanger rail and have to level it only once and then use vertical hanging brackets hooked into the horizontal rod.So I’ve decided to dive into the ClosetMaid system of organization for my standard small sterilite tubs and this is what I’ve come up with. I did bed to spend some time spanning everything out to be perfect but it just works.Thosethose are 8ft racks and there’s 11 tubs per rack so I can fit 33 as you see in the picture, I spaced the vertical uprights so that there would be one tub on the end and units of 3 tubs in between each upright.I bought all of the eight foot sections that Lowes had so that’s what I was able to put up.I’ll get more 8 foot sections and shelf brackets for the rest of my tubs. I imagine I need about three more shelves for the small tubs that I have a bunch of and I will use a deeper 18″ ClosetMaid shelf for my medium sized 15 quart sterilite containers.I still have these to sort:And a few more scattered about.No I’m not sponsored by ClosetMaid, but if they want to help out I wouldn’t turn it down. This stuff is expensive.

(Update)

I have gotten 3 more shelves and hung the box I already made in the garage side of the shop.

If you want to replicate the spacing the brackets are spaced in from the ends of the wire rack in the 9th full slot (8 empty complete holes) and the center supports are spaced evenly in thirds.

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Knockdown Portable Bed Frame (Camping/Guest)

I built this for vehicle camping (not backpacking) at sites that were lumpy and potentially wet. Ultimately I succeed in building a bed that was both comfortable, and dry. The dry function of the bed is more than just bulk water from rain, it’s also about body sweat because I sweat a bunch. All other common camping pads are blow-up and if you’ve ever slept on a blow-up mattress then you might have experienced some of the moisture I’m talking about. This elevated bed allowed plenty of ventilation and moisture-wicking ability providing a better-than-ground experience. There are a few improvements that I would implement in a second build. I’ll attach plans to this post at a later date so you can build it too.